If you are reading this, you have most likely already made the decision to invest in a custom suit that is designed particularly for you rather than purchasing one off the rack. A perfectly fitting suit enhances your confidence and exudes sophistication. But understanding how to buy a tailored suit requires more than just walking into a store and picking one off the rack. Thank you for entrusting professional stylists and tailors! We’re here to clear any doubts and answer your final questions while guiding you through the process of getting your perfectly tailored suit.
By reading this comprehensive guide, you should gain confidence in your decision-making process, learn about the range of customizable possibilities, and get familiar with the steps of the bespoke process.
As an added bonus, we’ve included a few tips on how to get your suit in Thailand.
Let’s get started!
1. Understand the style and fit of your tailored suit
Determining the right fit and style for your new suit is the first step towards getting a perfectly designed bespoke suit. Here, you should consider whether you need the suit for a wedding, a social event, a job, or a play. In terms of style, a suit for a business conference will need to meet different requirements than a suit for a wedding.
Before purchasing a tailored suit, you should also think about the message you want your clothes to convey. Are you trying to be trendy at a social gathering or to make an impression at work? Last but not least, your climate will have a significant influence on the cloth you choose in the future.
Main suit styles
You can choose one of the two basic styles for your tailored suit, depending on your needs and requirements:
Single-breasted suit: A single column of buttons and narrow fabric overlap are features of a single-breasted suit. It produces a more refined and adaptable appearance that is appropriate for professional as well as social situations.
Double-breasted suit: A double-breasted suit, on the other hand, has two columns of buttons that are separated by a significant overlap between the left and right sides. The majority of guys wear it in their suits, and it’s a great way to look professional and official. Its versatility is therefore lower than its single-breasted comparable.
How should a well-tailored suit fit?
Understanding how a suit should fit is important, even though fit issues are rare with a bespoke tailored suit. Strongly tapered sides and few shoulders define a well-tailored suit; these features are the complete opposite of off-the-rack suits, which frequently include ample shoulder padding to reduce labor.
Generally speaking, keep the following in mind when fitting:
- A slim, attractive fit with crisp lines that highlight your body form is what you want.
- You shouldn’t have any kind of movement restriction.
- You should request a little shoulder padding if you need to create a strong image in the workplace. Otherwise, shoulders that don’t require additional support are far more comfortable, allow for greater mobility, and are ideal for warmer regions.
- The length of the jacket sleeve should be between 1/2 and 3/4 of an inch (1.2 to 1.9 cm) longer than the shirt sleeve.
- In order to provide the longest leg line possible, jackets should be just long enough to cover your butt.
In order to ensure that your new tailored suit fits perfectly, a skilled stylist will confidently handle the entire fitting process both during the initial measurement and at future sessions.
2. Choosing the right suit fabric and construction
After deciding on fit and style, it’s time to choose the suit fabric and jacket construction, two of the most crucial choices you will ever make for your new tailored suit.
Suit fabric
The fabric you choose for your suit significantly impacts its comfort, durability, and appearance. Fabric is visible to the outer world which completes your tailored suit and also determines how it functions in different weather conditions. It can mean the difference between a suit that is uncomfortable and breathable.
Material: There are two layers of suit fabric to consider: the outside layer and the inner layer, also known as the inner lining cloth. The lining is typically made of silk or Bemberg, whilst the former is typically constructed of wool, cotton, linen, microfiber, or a combination of these materials. Then, each fabric offers a range of quality and performance levels, and each has unique qualities like breathability, wrinkle susceptibility, durability, formality, and cost.
Colour: The occasion and how often you wear a suit will decide the colors of your new suit. Black is generally the safest option if you only have one suit and wear it occasionally.
Charcoal grey and navy blue are better options, though, if you wear your suit frequently, and like to work every day. Why? They are the most practical and adaptable suit colors, offering excellent value for individuals who must regularly wear formal suits and want a timeless and classic look.
You can begin playing with various colors and patterns, including windowpane, checks, stripes, herringbone, and many more, when you have mastered the fundamental colors.
Jacket construction
The overall quality of a man’s suit and how well it fits your body are greatly influenced by the construction of your jacket. Furthermore, while it will cost more to make and take longer to complete, a better structure also means that your suit will last longer. Let’s examine the three fundamental constructions:
Fused suit jacket: Fusible interlining is affixed to the suit’s exposed outer fabric in both the front panels and the lapels of a fused, non-canvassed jacket. Although it’s quick and cheap to manufacture, a jacket made in this manner can be fairly rigid and doesn’t fit the man’s body as well as the next two constructions.
Half-canvassed suit jacket: A half-canvassed construction is a step up from the fused construction. A half-canvassed jacket is made up of a piece of canvassing cloth stitched to the top half of the jacket, from your shoulders to the chest, and a thin fused layer covering the entire front panel.
It may be the preferred option for people who wish to maximize suit quality without going over budget because it combines the best of both worlds: labor and cost savings from the fused approach and a natural drape and form in the chest and lapel area thanks to half-canvassing.
Full-canvassed suit jacket: A full-canvassed construction is the ultimate in tailoring. Using this approach, the entire front panel of the suit jacket, including the lapels, is covered in a canvas made of wool and horse or camel hair. Usually hand-stitched loosely to the outside fabric, it gives you more range of movement and mobility. Although full-canvassing offers a better drape and looks, it is quite expensive and time-consuming to produce.
The full-canvassed structure is the best option if money is not a concern; otherwise, most men will be satisfied with half-canvassing.
Also Read: Suit Jacket Lining Options!
3, Selecting suit composition & customisations
By now, you should have a clear idea of the purpose, style, design, and color of your tailored suit. Let’s now explore the various details that make a suit and the list of customizable options—there is a lot to discuss!
Suit jacket
Front and sleeve buttons
You can choose the number and quality of buttons for both the front of your jacket and its sleeves. For the front, you can have anywhere from one to eight buttons, and for the sleeves, you can select three to five buttons. You can also arrange them in different styles, such as spaced, touching, or stacked.
Regarding the button’s quality, you can typically select from corozo, mother of pearl, horn, or basic synthetic material—all of which, aside from plastic, are robust and natural materials.
Lapel
Suit lapels are the folded flaps of fabric on the front of a jacket, attached to the collar. There are three main types: notched, peaked, and shawl. Notched lapels, the most common, are often found on business suits and casual jackets like blazers. Peaked lapels are more formal and are mostly seen on double-breasted jackets, but also on some single-breasted ones. Shawl lapels are typically found on tuxedos.
Vents
There are three options for the vent in the back of your suit jacket: none, one, or two. Men have more space, flexibility, and mobility thanks to some useful traits. Unless you are purchasing a tuxedo or other black tie apparel, which do not have vents, choose a double-vent jacket if you are unsure.
Side & ticket pockets
Side pockets are a necessary feature of a men’s suit, even though they aren’t used very often these days. The most popular kind is a regular pocket or flap. It is a pocket with a rectangular flap that covers the opening, as the name suggests. It can be used with any suit and is widely available.
However, if you want to get an ultra-formal style, piped or jetted pockets are the perfect choice. With the exception of the flap, these pockets are exactly like the flap pockets. This pocket style is the most formal designs due to its extremely clean lines and minimum visible bulk.
On the other hand, patch pockets can be used to create a more relaxed suit style. Separate pieces of fabric are sewn straight onto the suit jacket to create patch pockets. Their complete frontal visibility helps with their laid-back personality.
A hacking pocket is the final kind of pocket. It is an ordinarily slightly tilted flap pocket. If you want to stand out, they can be a fantastic choice.
The ticket pocket is an optional secondary pocket that fits directly above the main pocket.
Lining
As it comes into contact with your body, the inside lining fabric is equally as crucial as the exterior one. Its function is to give your suit more weight and structure.
Unlined, half-lined, and fully lined are the three choices.
Depending on your local climate, you may want to make your decision. A full-lined suit jacket’s primary advantages are increased thickness and insulation. While half-lined or unlined suits may be more breathable and therefore cooler in warmer countries, that can be helpful in colder areas.
Having the color or pattern of your choice on the inside of your suit jacket is a fun and distinctive way to make the suit stand out, even though many people might not see it.
Silk or Bemberg are the two most popular materials for the lining.
Waistcoats
Even though waistcoats are mostly optional for suits, they can still be useful in today’s world, especially if you want to stand out. Wearing it for formal occasions, job interviews, or important presentations is something you might wish to do. When paired with a jacket and pants, it creates a classic three-piece suit and appears put together, elegant, and powerful.
Trousers
Front style
When wearing a jacket, the front of your pants will remain mostly hidden, but it shouldn’t stop you from seeing them. Flat, single pleats and double pleats are the three main front types that are typically available.
Pleats are used more for practical reasons than for decorative ones. They accommodate the spreading of the hips when sitting and give males a wider range of movement. While the rest of us will look better with double pleats, men with larger frames might prefer to choose a flat front version.
Waistband
A common feature of suit pants is the waistband, which is a narrow piece of fabric that encircles the waist and has hooks or a button to secure them to the body.
Belt loops could be a good option if you want to keep your pants in place. Although it’s advised to wear a belt always, however, going beltless is starting to gain popularity.
You can also utilize side adjusters to keep your pants in place. You may tighten the waist by about an inch on either side thanks to these tiny buckles, one at each hip, that are fastened to a cloth tab or strap.
An additional option is Suspenders, which attach to the buttons on the inside of the waistband.
Hem and cuffs
Dress pants are completed with a cuff or hem. A hem is a simple bottom where the necessary length of fabric is folded up within the leg of the pants. On the other hand, a cuff is made by pressing or sewing the bottom of the fabric, which is rolled up on the outside, into place.
Although wearing a cuffed flat-front pant is perfectly acceptable, hemmed bottoms are more commonly found on flat-front trousers. They are regarded as a less formal option. Cuffs, on the other hand, are often seen as the dressier choice.
The length of the trousers and the pant break—the spot at the bottom of your leg where your trousers and shoes meet—are also related to the bottom of the trousers. It establishes the length of men’s trousers and has a big impact on how you look.
Cropped pants, no break, quarter/slight break, half/medium break, and full break are the five trouser break options available to you.
Accessories
The basis of a well-dressed gentleman’s wardrobe is a two- or three-piece suit, but the creativity doesn’t end there. There are numerous accessories available for men to add style and personality to their outfits. These consist of bow ties, lapel pins, hats, cufflinks, tie clips, tie tacks, tie bars, dress shoes, neckties, pocket squares, wrist and pocket watches, and more.
Conclusion
Investing in a tailored suit is a decision you’ll never regret. By understanding fit, fabric, style, construction, customization, and color, you can own a suit that perfectly reflects your personality and style. Follow this guide, and you’ll be stepping out in confidence, knowing you look your absolute best.
Where to buy a tailored suit in Bangkok?
Bangkok has over 1,000 tailor shops, so choosing the right one can be difficult. Luckily, there are some clear signs to look for when researching. You can find more details in our guide on how to choose the best tailor in Bangkok.If you value both tailoring experience and high-quality products, we recommend visiting President Tailors near Sukhumvit 11/1 Khlong Toei Nuea. With over 35 years of experience and 500+ positive reviews online, we specialize in creating perfectly fitting bespoke clothing for men with an exceptional customer experience.
